December 2021 Hogmanay in Dornoch

Day 0

We take a day train on the 29th December, this time, and arrive without a hassle (but with a headache) in Inverness at 20:07. Unfortunately, that is after the last bus to Dornoch has left (around three hours after, in fact), and after all the car-rental companies have closed for the day. As a result, we booked a cab for the seventy-one-kilometre ride.

Our driver is expecting us at the station, and it is not long before we board a blue X-Type Jaguar. The driver is very talkative and tests my resistance, since I am the only one close enough to him to actually chat. He is nice and fast, but his driving is not exactly smooth. That brings me to the brink of illness, all exhausted and headache-y as I am after eight hours on a train.

Anyway, we make it to the Castle around 21:00. The bar has just closed, the restaurant closed an hour ago, but no matter! We are not hungry, and not really in the mood for a drink. We are glad to be there, and that is good on its own.

Once we have taken possession of the rooms, we have tea and a packet of crisps before retiring for the night. The most difficult is done: we are here. Up until the boarding of the train, I thought the whole thing would be cancelled as a result of the Omicron situation.

Day 1

Breakfast is welcome and plentiful.

Full Scottish breakfast for adc

Catch of the day for JS

Full Scottish for me

Today, we have hiking plans. adc tried to hike to the Point of Dornoch, two years ago, but did not make it all the way. That wrong needs to be righted.

That takes us across Royal Dornoch and Struie golf courses, then alongside the airfield. We spot oystercatchers (on the green), jackdaws, rooks (not crows), black-backed seagulls, curlews, and what we think are redshanks.

Then, we reach the shore

A group of unidentified birds -- possibly redshanks

Since the hike loops around the airfield, we are treated to a pilot practicing his taking-off and landing
(we later meet his contact on the ground -- it is a he)

The day is windy. We also stop-and-go a few times, as we come across streams too deep to cross on foot.

Case of point

Strange series of holes in the sand, on multiple occasions

We stumble across the skeleton of what seems like a seal

All in all, and despite the wind, it is an enjoyable walk in pleasant-enough weather. The sea air is cleaning our sinuses alright.

Fortunately, this mussel shell was empty.
Could have easily bitten my hand off!

Back in town a few hours later, we hit the shops, then go back to the hotel for a bite, before we hit the bar.

Day 2

Today, adc and JS would like to walk to Embo and prolong the journey to reach Loch Fleet, where we have lots of great memories of spotting seals and mergansers. But first, breakfast.

Eggs Benedict with smoked salmon for adc...

...and for JS

Full Scottish for me. The sausage is boiled, not grilled. Pity

We set off early. We walk alongside Royal Dornoch again, reach Embo and proceed north from there on what appears to be the old rail line..

Past Embo, this building, which looks like a train stop

A collection of funky mushrooms

Glazed peach tart

Seriously!

We are caught off guard by the distance to the loch (as we were six years ago) and have to shamefully turn around before reaching the loch. This year, it is not because the sun is setting or because of the cold. No: we want to be back before 14:00, lest we miss lunch -- and we will have none of that!

We are not pleased to give up, but our decision pays off: we are back well on time to grab a bite before visiting the bar.

As a bonus, we pass the new bottling plant of Dornoch distillery

Day 3

The great thing about an early night on New Year's Eve is that one is up earlier on New Year's Day. And indeed, when the alarm clock rings at 7:00, I happily get up.

Why would anyone set their alarm at 7:00 on NYD? Well, the Loony Dook has been cancelled, this year. You will remember that at midday on NYD, the people of Dornoch dive into Dornoch Firth (reason unknown, but probably to dissipate the effects of alcohol). That is preceded by a countdown, then signalled by a piper and supported by the life guards. There is food afterwards (soup, hot-dogs)... This year, the authorities cancelled all that, because of COVID-19.

However, they forgot to remove the firth. I have decided to take the plunge regardless (I do not need soup or a piper, hopefully not the life guards either), and JS is on the fence. Since nothing is organised, nothing forces us to go at midday. Each past year, I dreaded those few hours' waiting: so much time for second thoughts, so much time for the weather to go ballistic, so much time wasted waiting... and the bar is not even open! No! This year, we go at dawn, come back, then have breakfast and the full day ahead of us.

Of course, it is too dark for good photographs, so you will have to believe.

Someone wrote: "We came at 8am
The water was nice
Where were you softies?
=) <- smiley face"
A joker, certainly.

Full Scottish for adc

Smoked salmon and scrambled eggs for JS

Full Scottish for me

Good thing we went early too: we go for a walk in town after breakfast, and the skies open, drenching us. Fortunately, we were just on time for breakfast and therefore have not yet taken a shower to wash away the salt and sand. That rain is our clue to do so, surely.

One of the large properties on Dornoch Heights

Under the watchful eye of an intimidating security team

Once cleaned, we make it to the bar for one round before lunch. As it turns out, the weather becomes much more clement by 12:00, but we do not care: our Loony Dook is already over.

Day 4

We pick up our packed lunches from reception and jump into a cab to Inverness station. The driver is not wearing a mask, but much smoother than the one we had on the way up. It takes a little over forty-five minutes to get there, during which I manage to doze off. I will sleep a lot throughout the (pretty quiet and uneventful) eight-hour train journey back to the capital too. A trip to Dornoch is exhausting!