October 2024 Islay (Part 3 -- the south)

Day 3 -- Monday, the 14th October

The weather is supposed to be dreary from mid-morning onward, so we will focus on the south of the island, today.

Firstly, we drive to Port Ellen (and spot a few geese along the way), where the new distillery is very pretty with its huge glass front. Across the courtyard, the tasting room is perched on the first floor of a separate building. Hard to see much of the interior from street level, but it is obviously targeted at rich punters in search of an "experience," rather than at those who gave Port Ellen its reputation, when no-one knew the name.

The swish still house

The tasting room, that one expects is lavish.
Pagodas in the background, the only remaining feature
of the 1967 building

Anyway, we continue to the Oa for the same hike we did in 2017: the Mull of Oa circular walk.

We pass by Highland coos, come head to head with wild goats, and spot a reed bunting or two, as well as twites. From atop the cliff, we see gannets skimming the water. The weather is beautiful, which makes for an excellent, if unchallenging hike.

More challenging for non-humans,
as illustrated by this gnawed-at hare leg

How much further?

How much further?

...aaaaaaand we are there.

A winged companion joins us...

...and shares amber liquid with us

Wild goats block our passage

I was well pleased to spot this caterpillar, then JS
found half a dozen of them larking about

From there, we go back down the road to Kilnaughton, and park the car to find the Singing Sands on foot. It is another unchallenging walk, but one that turns out very rewarding. The sands in question are not singing (probably superseded by the Singing Sands Tribute Act), but the beach is gorgeous.

The blue lagoon

Our path takes us right and up the hill

The Singing Sands

Still trying to find tour dates and tickets for
the Singing Sands Tribute Act.
Answers on a postcard...

From here, one can appreciate the detours that CalMac takes 
to circumvent Islay's shallow waters

On our way back, we stop by the lighthouse -- we actually stop short of it: the tide is coming, it is windy, and some of the waves promise soaked clothes for the rest of the day, if not a full bath. Also, we are hungry.

Coming down on Kilnaughton

Carraig Fhada Lighthouse

Our next stop is Port Ellen, where we have decided to lunch at Sea Salt. It is, unfortunately, closed. As is everything else. JS spotted a place, earlier, near the petrol station, and reckons it is open. It is indeed: we end up at No. 1 Charlotte Street (the café is called Little Charlottes Café, without apostrophe, much to my dismay). They serve humble, hearty food that suits us perfectly. adc and I have the Black Pudding Toastie, whereas JS has the Roasted Veg Toastie. JS and I have a Tomato and Basil Soup on top. We even have dessert. As we enjoy our lunch, the Luxembourgers from last night enter. We laugh.

Also a ballroom, a ceilidh venue, a hotel,
a petrol station, a restaurant, a bar, a fire station,
a bus shelter, and a diamond-cutting workshop

Tomato and Basil Soup (JS and me)

Roasted Veg Toastie (JS)

Frangipane and Mixed Berries Tart (me)

Passion Fruit and Lime Cake (JS)

Our afternoon activities will naturally take place on the road to Kildalton. We see the Portintruan distillery from the road, still under construction, though well recognisable as a distillery, rather than an indistinct heap of rubble. We manage to overshoot Laphroaig, and head for Lagavulin instead. When we discussed Islay with adc, she said she was not interested in the island, because she does not like Lagavulin; that made this stop non-negotiable. It is also entirely pointless: the shop is decently stocked, but the prices are laughable. Pushing two grand for a 25-year-old, or £455 for a 21-year-old Benrinnes Special Release 2024. We easily leave it all behind.

Our next stop is Ardbeg. The Kiln Café is closed for the season (refurbishment), but the bar and shop are open. For comparison, a 25-year-old here is just north of one grand, which is a lot of money, but half of Lagavulin's asking price for an equivalent age statement. They have a couple of incredible single casks (a 38-year-old and a whopping 47-year-old) behind glass. Prices on application (also known as: if you have to ask, you cannot afford it).

adc gets to try Ardbeg An Oa (46.6%, OB, b. ca. 2024) and is seduced by it. It is widely available, so we leave empty-handed, though not before bumping into the Luxembourgers again. We share a few pleasantries and bid good bye for the final time.

The clock is merciless. We trace our steps back to Laphroaig in the hope that we reach there before they close. The place is heaving, but we manage to reach the bar. We are given a complimentary Laphroaig QA (40%, OB, ex-Bourbon & Un-Charred American Oak Barrels) (thanks, I guess...), and we get a sniff of a Fino-matured single cask (picture right). The shop is, again, on the overpriced side, for someone accustomed to prices from twenty years ago, but more reasonable than Lagavulin's. For illustration, they have a 34-year-old and a 33-year-old somewhere between £1,000 and £1,500.

We take a look at the museum, which is different to what it was in 2017, and leave empty-handed once again.

Laphroaig's cutest dwellers

It was a mandatory string of stops, but one would be hard-pressed to call them successful. At least, we saved cash.

From Laphroaig, we head east again, and stop to visit Dunyvaig Castle -- for the first time, I am ashamed to admit. It is not in great condition, and some passages are so dangerous we do not risk them. There is, however, a bench nearby, with a direct view onto Lagavulin. JS insists on taking Park & Recreations-style pictures, and we enjoy the opportunity to sit down a bit. That is when adc spots harbour seals in the harbour (how topical). We spend a while observing them.

The view from Ron Swanson's dream house

JS climbs the castle walls

No, you are not jumping to that other piece of the wall

ABSOLUTELY not!

Well, hello!

We need to move before sundown, though. Our final stop on that stretch of land, after a sporty drive on unnamed, unnumbered country roads is Kildalton. En route, we meet rabbits, a few deer and several pheasants.

The Kildalton chapel and crosses (both High and Small) are wonderful as ever. It helps that, apart from a couple of Italians who struggle to distinguish the High Cross from an XVIIIth-century tombstone, we are alone. It gives an eerie feel to the place that is well adequate.

The chapel

The Kildalton High Cross

The Kildalton Small Cross

Looks even better from this angle

The sun is quickly going down. A passing hunter on a quad with his two dogs signals it is time to go. We stop at Storm-Pods to take pictures of Dunyvaig from another angle, then drive back to Bowmore on the old road.

Timely arrival: we spend half-an-hour on the harbour, gazing at the colourful sunset.

Right?

RIGHT?

We dine at Peatzeria.

JS has the Red and Black Pizza

adc has the Fritto Misto

I have the Bradan Rost & Smoked Mussels Pizza

The bouncer looks well'ard, innit

Reflecting on the day, we acknowledge all the distilleries have interesting bottlings available, none well priced -- or affordable to us. Lagavulin being the worst offender on that front.