The Old Man of Huy's key travels: June-July 2025 Arran, Skye, Western Isles (Part 14 -- Eriskay to Barra)

Day 14 -- Wednesday, the 9th July

We start the day with raspberry jam on crumpets, and cherries. I do not resist switching the tube on and am delighted to see The King of Queens (S4.E4 Friender Bender). It is out of place, perhaps, yet it helps prepare the mind for the inevitable return to reality. Also, I love the show.

We drive south and cross over to Eriskay minutes later. Soon, we reach the ferry terminal. There are a few short Eriskay walks around said terminal, but none of us is up for any of them today.

We are one of the first three vehicles on board

It is an easy crossing with the ever-reliable (except to Arran) CalMac.

We will stop here another time

Barra is fairly small; it takes us less than half-an-hour to travel from Ardmhòr to Castlebay, which will be our final ~~resting place~~ base.

We call at the local Heritage Centre, which seems like a haven for Canadians tracing their roots, and a reminder that, at the time of the Clearances, the indigenous people tended to have very-large families (ten children or more).

Once lunchtime hits, we walk to nearby Fish Box Kitchen who have just opened for the day. Their grub is excellent.

Love the unassuming aspect of some of the places we eat at

Special (adc)
Hand-dived Barra scallops & langostine [sic] tails
pan-fried with chorizo and chilli-garlic served on house made
nori-sourdough bread and house made aioli

Fish Burger (me)
Crispy tempura battered monk fish [sic] on a brioche bun,
house made classic coleslaw & sweet pickled onions

Special (JS)

Unsure where to go next, we opt for the local Co-Op. Funnily enough, the distillery is right across the car park, opposite the old grocery shop, which must not be thrilled that a supermarket opened its doors on its own doorstep.

The distillery is not too exciting yet, since they only started distilling whisky in 2024. It is gin for now, and a few "while we wait" type whiskies -- a Blair Athol 10yo b.2021 Gold Cave (46%, Isle of Barra Distillers, 417b), as well as Barra Distillers Blended Scotch (46%, Isle of Barra Distillers, Barrique + 2nd Fill Sauternes + 1st Fill Pedro Casks, 986b) 5/10 and Barra Distillers Blended Malt 10yo b.2024 (46%, Isle of Barra Distillers, 986b) 6/10, both of which we try. The Blair Athol is not available. The girl manning the till is not particularly enthusiastic or engaging and we do not even try their gin.

We cross the road to the small shop. In pure Scottish fashion, it contains everything from fisherman's boots to tat for tourists, from frozen vegetables to nails and toys. adc purchases a postcard that will go missing shortly after, never to resurface. Surprisingly, considering the current string of overpriced concerts they are giving, we hear the only Oasis song of the whole trip, sung (not very well) by a shop attendant. I reckon it is an improvement on Gallagher's singing all the same. Each to their own.

We go back up the hill to check in at Tigh Na Mara.

Here

Then, we do the harrowing Herring Walk, a gruelling 57-metre trek across flat and well-paved land along the harbour.

Virtually the entirety of the Herring Walk

Our first proper view of Kisimul Castle

The proof-of-concept lime kiln
the like of which they used to bake mortar
e.g. to build the castle walls

Unfazed by that arduous challenge, we continue eastward to Ledaig (another one), from where we spot the MV Isle of Lewis entering the bay and berthing just behind the castle. Even though I had seen pictures, it is crazy to see in real life how close it is to said castle, and how similar it is in size.

"Out of my way, castle!"

"I am hidden!"

I pop into the Castlebay Community Hall to ask if and how we can visit the castle. They have a fascinating exhibition on the subject.

(A bottle of Talisker, allegedly)

Sadly, the castle is inaccessible for the time being, but there are boat excursions that sail around it daily, I am told.

Outside, a Tesla with an Austrian plate sports this sticker

I collect the girls from Buth Bharraigh and we go back to our accommodation to freshen up. adc gets a room upgrade: another guest has cancelled, because her plane did not take off, due to the weather. On the telly, the BBC is broadcasting Wimbledon and we are well amused to witness, in real time, Hugh Grant asleep in the Royal Box.

We go out to have dinner at Café Kisimul. They have a table for us... in two hours. Undeterred, we sign up and go back home, in the rain, for an apéritif -- to warm up and dry up. Also, we catch The Simpsons S8.E22 In Marge We Trust.

Two hours later, we are back at the restaurant. It is virtually empty. Other tables will fill up later, but it is quieter than it was. It was also well worth the wait! The food is delicious, the staff is friendly and efficient, the prices are reasonable. Top meal. JS reckons it is her favourite of our trip.